2008 Biluochun AA

Posted on 28 May 2009

Ever since my early days of ‘ambitious’ tea drinking I have enjoyed Biluochun (often spelled Pi Lo Chun). I can still remember the taste of an example purchased at Mariage Frères in Paris that was a literal tastebud shock after a diet of rock-bottom Gunpowders. This tea, coming from the northern (by tea standards) province of Jiangsu, and more specifically from Mt. Dongting (though as with all classic Chinese teas, you’ll find replicas from all over, including Biluochun from Taiwan these days), is often ranked as the very best of Chinese green teas, and I have a soft spot for its crispness and deep green aroma that is sometimes reminiscent of the best Italian olive oils (though you might prefer the more stately, complex Longjing).

It’s name is translated as ‘spring green snail’ (there are all sorts of nomenclature legends surrounding this tea: find out more in this excellent article), and as our garden was invaded by hundreds of snails this morning after a heavy rain, I found it apt to brew a cup of Biluochun.

This 2008 pre-qing ming (first spring flush) tea was a purchase from Jing Tea (who are now offering the 2009 version of the same tea). A moderately expensive tea at $32 / 100g.

Brewed in: gaiwan

Dosage: 2g / 100ml

Leaf: Biluochun traditionally consists of a bud + 1 leaf grade (maojian) and a high proportion of white hair on the bud. This tea reflects exactly that. The dry leaf aroma is delightful, reminiscent of fresh grass, good olive oil, artichokes and such.

Tasting notes:

60s @ 75C: Some depth of colour. Mildly vegetal, with a delicate aroma and flavour but that elusive ‘presence’ on the palate. A long, delicate finish. Also a solid core that I would define as ‘mineral’ similarly to a good white wine. A satisfying brewing, with good timing (though tea at bottom of gaiwan is quite bitter).

45s @ 80C: Similar to above but a little lighter in aroma.

45s @ 85C: Past its best now, quite pale – perhaps infused too short.

This tea, while not inexpensive, confirmed its grand cru status, with excellent stature and depth. The true Chablis of tea. I would imagine this to match quite well with delicate foods such as sashimi (instead of the more aggressive Japanese teas).