Patience required

One of the most enticing aspects of the Nebbiolo-centered week that I’ve spent in Alba and Barolo (see previous two posts for details: clock link above left) is the large amount of older vintages that are poured, both at private verticals organised by the various estates and within the official 10-year retrospective that is a traditional ingredient of the Nebbiolo Prima event.

The latter showcased Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero wines from the 2000 vintage. Once the object of considerable hype (it was one of Wine Spectator ‘vintages of the century’ (rated 99/100, FWIW), its star has quickly waned as the vastly superior 2001 as well as 2004 followed. A dry and warm vintage that yielded, rich, soft, opulent wines, 2000 was readily approachable in its early youth and it’s no wonder many wines have had a rather short lifespan for Nebbiolo. But I was nonetheless disappointed with the amount of wines that have already faded: 10 years should be the life expectancy of any Barolo and Barbaresco, yet I’ve had more than a couple that were completely over the hill and oxidised, at times tasting more like a 1970 than 2000. In this respect, the vintage has quite clearly behaved less well than the comparably hot and dry 1997 (among the three dozen wines tasted three years ago here in Alba the majority were very good).

Premature ageing seems to be the major problem of the 2000s. Those wines that are still alive are attractively fruity and rich with soft acids and certain elegance. I’ve tasted 46 2000s and while the sample was far from exhaustive – producers presented their wines at their own discretion, and many good ones abstained – but I think quite representative (I did not taste any crus from Serralunga or Monforte in the Barolo DOCG, however). In no particular order, those wines I really liked included Matteo Correggia’s Roero Ròche d’Ampsèj, Michele Taliano’s Barbaresco Ad Altiora, Silvio Grasso’s Barolo Ciabot Manzoni, Mario Gagliasso’s Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata and a great duo of Barolo Riserva from Cavallotto: Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe and Vignolo. Those Barolos and Barbarescos that still have the power to age and improve are few and far between, however: two that really rose above their peers were the Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros by Marchesi di Grésy, a Nebbiolo of majestic minerality and acidic structure, and the old-vine Barolo Bussia Riserva by veteran Sergio Barale: fantastic fruit and panache in this blueberry-scented wine (tasted from magnum).

With the pale performance of the 2000s, it was to the private vertical tastings that my attention was diverted, where the bottles on show often spanned three or four decades. At Cascina Luisin, one of my favourite Barbaresco producers (the Rabajà 2000, tasted several times, was ironically one of my wines of 2009), we had a fantastically preserved 1970 that showed a fairly tertiary bouquet but had amazing punch and a full flavour on the palate. At Aurelio Settimo, one of the last Mohicans of the true traditional style of Barolo (see recent post here), we had a look at vintages ending in 9: the 1979 and 1989 were very aged, with caramelly, roasted-meaty, balsamic vinegar bouquets yet still some tannic and acidic punch. But the show was stolen by the 1999 Rocche Riserva, a wine of majestic grace and balsamic richness to the fruit; clearly the best wine made here in recent years.

The most impressive vertical was organised by the house of Cordero di Montezemolo. We tasted the Barolo Monfalletto in no less than nine vintages; a wine that is often unshowy and a little austere in youth but goes on for decades. In contradiction to the former, the 2005 and 2006 were lovely, with succulent fruit and a near-perfect balanced that belies their fairly modernistic vinification. I was a little underwhelmed by the simple and advanced 1988, and the 1970, 1971 and 1977 showed a certain greenness and dilution that I find typical of Barolos from their decade (all three were very good though), but it was all worth enduring to have two sips of the unforgettable 1958, a gran signore of a wine with aristocratic composure and some vivid tannic verve still left to continue for the next decade or so.

I’ll end this post on a sad note, however. For long years one of the best sources for delicious old Barolo was the estate of Giacomo Borgogno. (I reported on their 1947 here). I remember buying the 1961 in 2008 for 105€, and other vintages were priced similarly keenly. What made them even better buys was that each bottled was recorked, refilled and checked for condition, so they are basically guaranteed to be very good. In 2008 the estate was sold by the Boschis family to fine food & wine mogul Oscar Farinetti (also the owner of large Barolo producer Fontanafredda and the Eataly project). A handsome street front shop was added to the Borgogno HQ in Barolo, where the winery’s impressive library of older vintages can be purchased. Well, the 1961 has now been repriced at… 590€. It admittedly was underpriced before but 590€ puts it at the same ridiculous level as 1961 Bordeaux classed growths (which I think have a bit more market following). Let me just add that old Borgogno can still be had at the original prices e.g. at Barolobrunello.com.

Disclosure