Under the watchful eye

Posted on 13 January 2011

My full Burgundian immersion in London continues. Yesterday, Flint Wines, Bouchard Père & Fils, Howard Ripley and John Armit for a total of 180 wines (sigh).

It’s been a good day. I didn’t have as many lucky hits as the day before at Berry Bros. or Justerini, but made a few discoveries: good aff

ordable wines from lesser-known estates that I’ll seek to buy myself. And I also found a fabulous simple Bourgogne Rouge. I don’t usually buy this AOC (I prefer a modest village wine instead for a few € more), but this 2009 from Domaine Darviot-Perrin has the dimension of a premier cru and fantastic poise. It’s available in the UK at £72 in bond per 6 from Howard Ripley.

The very best red Burgundy I’ve tasted today came from Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot. Stunningly concentrated wines of almost Nordic seriousness. The 2009 Clos de Vougeot was easily the best from this grand cru (not my favourite) I’ve tasted this week, but to be honest the Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots was just as good. And it’s actually reasonably priced at £245 per 6 from Flint Wines.

We’ve also been tasting in some stunning London locations. The library at the Travellers Club and the Royal Institute of British Architects hall are very nice but nothing beats the Elizabethan splendor of Middle Temple Hall and Lincoln’s Inn where I’ve pondered over Chambolle and Gevrey yesterday.

The Howard Ripley tasting was held also at Middle Temple in a smaller room called Parliament Chamber. There are portraits of members going back to the 16^th century. It made me a little nervous to taste under their watchful gazes, but I think they too enjoyed good burgundy when the time was theirs. Cheers to Sir William Perryam!

Disclosure

I’m staying in London at my own expense. I’m provided free entry to the tastings as a journalist.