Wojciech Bońkowski
Master of Wine

A barren landscape

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has just improved on last year but the general level is still unsatisfactory.

A statistical Chianti

A statistical look at my tasting of 97 Chiantis from 2009 – for fun and, hopefully, education.

Chianti 2009: moving on

First taste of 2009 Chianti Classico. Looking good – producers have coped well with this hot, dry vintage.

Apple and salt

Tasting the new 2011 vintage of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, I feel refreshed, interested, and happy.

The Italian disease

Absenteeism is poisoning the Italian wine industry. Producers are shamelessly taking advantage of others.

Beautiful memories

Saying goodbye to good old Rosso di Montalcino? Awaiting the verdict of appellation authorities next Wednesday, I’m having a delicious 100% Sangiovese Rosso tonight.

Montalcino still at war

Montalcino is still at war. The idea of allowing grapes other than Sangiovese into Rosso di Montalcino has boomeranged. But is it really Montalcino’s biggest problem? I don’t think so.

A window wide shut

Vino Nobile is one of Tuscany’s great historical wines. But where is it going today? Tasting through 110 examples, I find them undrinkable until they are really aged. But who is going to have the patience?

Extra virgin upper crust

Fantastic tasting of extra virgin olive oils from the DOP Chianti Classico area. Controlled appellation oils are really classy – unlike for wine, DOP for oil is a seriously reliable endorsement.

Out of the pink

I’ve got a great idea for Brunello di Montalcino producers to ease themselves out of the sales crunch. Make rosé. Not only because it’s fashionable, but because Montalcino pinks can be seriously good.