Wojciech Bońkowski
Master of Wine

More green tea: two Guapians

Posted on 30 January 2009

Fancy melon in your tea?

Another French tea blog entry on another famous Chinese green tea gave me an impulse to review it here, too. Guapian (colonial translation Melon Slice) bears two similarities with Houkui (see yesterday’s entry). It too comes from the province of Anhui, but from the western, higher-perched county of Lu’an instead of Taiping. And it too is made of large leaves which by other Chinese green tea standards, would be considered ‘lower-grade’.

2008 Liu An Guapian AA from Jing Tea

Two similarly priced examples ($22 and $25 per 100g, respectively): 2008 Liu An Guapian AA from Jing Tea (hereafter ‘A’) and 2008 Supreme Liu An Guapian from Dragon Tea House (‘B’). Both were brewed in gaiwan with 4g / 120ml with 40s (80C), 25s (85C), 40s, 1m.

2008 Supreme Liu An Guapian from Dragon Tea House

Dry leaf:
A: Average sized dark green leaves, like miniature rolled cigars.
B: Large dark green leaves with a pleasant, fruity aroma (melon is in fact not a bad descriptor), pretty complex.

Tasting notes:
A: Lid and cup aroma has three main notes: mild pea, dried hay, and a fruity note akin to melon. Medium bodied for a green tea, with absolutely no astringency. Not very crisp. Really enjoyable, with a good balance of fruity and vegetal elements. In later brewings aroma is more green-spicy, palate smooth with good length, not very distinctive or complex. This seems pretty forgiving of water temperature: no bitterness on the horizon.

Brewing #1 of 2008 Liu An Guapian AA from Jing Tea

B: Starts with a very minor melon note on the nose, then receding into a more hayey green tea generic register. Good intensity and character throughout the first brewing, ending on a chewy, strangely meaty (chicken came to mind) flavour. No astringency but that elusive and welcome ‘presence’ on the finish. Brewing #2 has a bit less precision, finish is still balanced and unbitter when water is cooled down a bit. Brewing #3: Still good, it takes another 1m brewing to really recede into aromatic anonymousness, though surely not blandness (still some grip on end). Good tea here.

Overall:
Two very competent (if not cheap) examples of this famous tea. Unlike small-leaf teas such as Maofeng or Biluochun, this packs in quite some power and solid flavour, but shows a fruitier, fresher profile than the more nutty, beany Houkui that I reviewed yesterday.

Spent leaves of 2008 Liu An Guapian AA from Jing Tea