Fougeray de Beauclair Picpoul 2007
Posted on 6 February 2009
Got a nice package of samples from France earlier this week. Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair sent four of their burgundies from the northern Côte de Nuits (I will review these soon), but also three wines of their recent offspring to the Languedoc.
One of them is Picpoul de Pinet. It is safe to say that Languedoc as a region specialises in red wines; it takes a special terroir (usually upper than lower in the valleys) and, crucially, a careful selection of grape varieties to make a distinctive white. There surely are some good Chardonnays, Viogniers, Marsanne / Roussanne blends, and a growing number of exciting wines from Grenache Blanc, but also a large amount of pretty bland vins de pays.
Picpoul de Pinet is an oddity, in that is has a long tradition. Unlike the above mentioned grapes that have been imported from other parts of France in the 19th and 20th century, Picpoul (or Piquepoul, as it is often spelled) goes back many centuries and is considered one of the oldest varieties to be still cultivated in the Languedoc. It has a red-skinned version, Piquepoul Noir, that is theoretically permitted in the AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and can be found in a few vineyards in Languedoc’s Minervois (see
Clos Centeilles, for example). More common is the white Piquepoul Blanc, of which there is around 1,400 hectares, chiefly in the specialist AOC Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet. Located west of the ancient port of Sète on the gentle hills leading to the Étang de Thau, it yields an interesting white wine that is a perfect partner for the local seafood.Fougeray de Beauclair’s Picpoul de Pinet Val Grieux 2007 is a good example of this rewarding appellation. Not a very aromatic white but there is a good amount of iodine-laden terroir scents. On palate this shows good balance and Picpoul typicity, with medium-highish acidity, some mid-palate textural density (almost hinting at honey), and medium body. Distinctly maritime but not overtly crisp, this is an unfruity but interestingly textured wine that is made for food. On the picture below, my choice of pairing for today’s lunch: saffron moules à la crème. The delightfully affordable Spanish saffron from La Mancha allows to generously flavour this sauce without too much of a financial headache.
