Wojciech Bońkowski
Master of Wine

2004 He Shihua Jingmai

Posted on 11 March 2009

Over the next few days I’ll be reviewing some puer teas I ordered from online merchant NadaCha. Tea aficionados will know Nada from his blog A Felicific Life, and the truly interesting range of teas on NadaCha. (One of the best features of which is the possibility of ordering puer teas on a ‘per gram’ basis; a vital one if you want to try that £355 cake before you buy).
The 2004 He Shihua Jingmai belongs to the least expensive teas on offer at NadaCha (£28 per cake). I have very little background knowledge about this producer so cannot say how much credit is to be given to the ‘Millenial Old Tree’ claim on the wrapper.

Brewed in: dahongpao clay pot
Dosage: ~6g/120ml
Leaf: A semi-compact cake with a an amount of tips, and a somewhat aged colour overall (not surprising perhaps for a tea almost 5 years old). Wet leaf includes a lot of chopped fannings, with the occasional wholish leaf; overall colour is rather green (greener than expected from the dry leaf perhaps).

Tasting notes:
45s: This is firmly into orange-beige territory – not yellow – but not very dark. A very clean profile, dominated by a dry tobacco note on the nose and a sweet candy character on palate (ranging from white sugar to banana). No astringency in this brew. Good thickness, even a hint of oiliness. Very good, though not very complex or terribly intense.
45s: Much as before, with minor ku appearing on end. Less oily.
30s, 1m: Two consistent brewings. Astringency now a bit more pronounced but unobtrusive, I find this pretty delicate for a young sheng. Good aroma, good flavour, this is very clean – impeccable storage as always with Nada’s teas IME.
5m: Even when pushed this long there is very little upfront bitterness: this tea has already started to settle. Again very clean and crisp profile, there is not the merest hint of wet storage. Tobacco is now almost absent, profile dominated by white sugar. Medium length. This tea has a lot of qualities but perhaps not such a boatload of expression. Judging by the leaf quality I trust this could improve further, though.