2008 Spring Luanze

Posted on 25 April 2009

A springtime delight

High mountain (gaoshan) oolong from Central Taiwan is one of the world’s best teas, and Shan Lin Shi is one of the most famous appellations (origins) here. No wonder, therefore, that leading Taiwan tea internet specialist Tea Masters are offering no less than a dozen varieties from each vintage including six from Shan Lin Shi alone, at the time of writing.

As the spring is here and I am waiting to place an order for 2009 oolongs, I am slowly finishing my sample of the 2008 Shan Lin Shi Spring Luanze. As most of the top gaoshan oolongs, this is made from the qingxin tea cultivar, also known as luanze (and identified as such on the Tea Masters catalogue). There will be experts around to explain it fully but the reason why qingxin is preferred to other tea cultivars (such as jianxuan or the most widespread sijichun) is the inimitable buttery mouthfeel it gives, along with good ageing potential for the more roasted types.

See here for background about this tea, which was picked on 30th April 2008 at 1650 meters of altitude and underwent no roast; the oxidation is also rather low, giving a tea that’s close to a green in aroma and lightness, but showing a bit more substance and sturdiness than most green teas.

Price: 28 € / 100g (and worth every penny)
Brewed in: gaiwan
Dosage: 4 g / 120ml
Leaf: Appearance is the usual tightly rolled green leaf with a bit of stem attached. Dry leaf aroma is clean and very pleasant, reminiscent of the leaves and petals of first spring flowers (tulips perhaps).

Brewing #1 (30 seconds).

Tasting notes:
30s: The aroma is surprising for a gaoshan in being only vaguely floral, and quite vegetal-leafy. Flavour is again less floral than many teas of this style: mild, soft, light, with only a bit of dryness on end. As it cools down there is quite an inviting velvety texture and an understated, clean, satisfying vegetal taste.
30s: Seems denser in texture and flavour, with some grainy, mealy notes adding to the vegetality.
30s: Now a little lighter, no floweriness at all, and some grip on the finish. In fact this is going along the lines of brewing #2 in showing a touch of roast perhaps (?? Tea Masters are indicating there is none): against many featherlight and unsubstantial renditions of Shan Lin Shi, this tea has guts, and has in fact survived the 360 days of ageing more than well. Altogether a highly satisfying version of its appellation. Stay tuned for tasting notes of other SLS types offered by Tea Masters.