Münzenrieder Chardonnay TBA 1998
Posted on 11 May 2009
Patience pays
With two excuses – the awful aftertaste of the sweet Gambellaras I reported on here, and my ongoing Austrian mini-series – I opened this old(ish) bottle of Austrian dessert wine from the cellar.
The
Münzenrieder name may not enjoy the galactic reputation of Kracher or Triebaumer but I have always enjoyed their range of sweet wines, especially the Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslesen which are both affordable and reliable. 1998 was a great vintage for Austrian sweet wines, and at age 10 these wines are now providing a lot of excitement while also showing where Austria really stands in the sweet wine league.The Trockenbeerenauslese Chardonnay 1998 (9.5% alcohol and some 220+ g residual sugar, I’m guessing) is fully mature now. A very deep amber-brown colour, and a nose of a caramelised-mature botrytis wine with not much complexity at first. Palate shows burnt brown sugar and a touch of bacon-like oakiness. While initially this TBA lacks personality and freshness, time in the glass is bringing quite some sensual bliss: a seriously rich, concentrated wine with generous botrytis. Very good indeed.