Amazing Arneis
Posted on 9 May 2011
My first day in Alba continued, atypically, with more white wine. If Ghiomo surprised me with a fine 2008 Arneis, what to say about Angelo Negro with two 2007s and one 2001? This estate located in Roero (they also make good Barbera and Nebbiolo) hosted an incredible vertical of their two top Arneis bottlings: Perdaudin and Sette Anni.
Angelo Negro Arneis: impressive staying power.
Just to put things into context, Arneis is usually a very light commercial white wine that’s similar in body and intensity to a supermarket Pinot Grigio. With this in mind, Negro’s Perdaudin is an extraordinary creature that seems to come from another planet. With its concentration, broad body, clear saline notes and mineral structure, it tastes like an ideal crossing of Riesling and Viognier. In a ripe year like 2009 the Perdaudin bottling (30-year-old vines on sand soil with a 100% southern exposure) is punchy and expressive like a good Viognier. In a cooler year like 2008, it’s finer and crisper in a more Riesling dimension.
Ten years of ageing for an Arneis? You gotta be kidding.
These were all excellent, assertive wines with a sense of place but the 2001 Sette Anni, aged seven years in bottle before release, was even more extraordinary. No signs of tiring with plenty of substance and brilliant balance. Rivalling a good white Burgundy. (It’s 35€ on the shelf). Unexpected gems on my first day in the cradle of Barolo.
Disclosure
My trip to Piedmont including flights, accommodation and wine tasting programme is sponsored by the Albeis consortium of wine producers.