Beautiful memories
Posted on 5 September 2011
The vote on Rosso di Montalcino rules, and possible addition of dreaded Merlot into virginal Sangiovese (see my previous post), will be held on Wednesday. The blogosphere is still alight with comments and speculation. I decided to take a back seat today, switch off the internet, and enjoy a Rosso di Montalcino as I like it.
Zesty, pure and authentic, as Sangiovese should be.
I’ve picked this 2005 Banditella Rosso from Col d’Orcia in the cellar. I’m now tasting it on a cool Polish evening, slightly chilled, from a Burgundy-type glass (a choice I like with Sangiovese, emphasising the freshness and finesse).
My personal feelings about the proposed Rosso rules changes are ambiguous. I really don’t like war. I prefer to be consonant than belligerent, so to speak. The fact is that Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and other grapes are planted on a large scale in Montalcino, and it’s a real-life issue all parts of the controversy need to face. From an ideological point of view, I’m a supporter of pure Sangiovese, but in all honesty, against the opinion of many of my journalist colleagues, I’m not really sure if adding 5% foreign grapes cannot actually increase the market potential of Rosso. Banfi, Frescobaldi and Nardi – three estates that apparently will advocate changes – are in Montalcino to stay. I’m not terribly happy about their position, but I (we) have to accept it. They’re a bit like an underwhelming brother-in-law. He doesn’t enjoy wine and his jokes are terribly embarrassing; on the whole my sister did a stupid thing to marry him, but she did, and so I must sit at Christmas dinner with this guy I don’t exactly like, trying to be polite and perhaps even apprehensive.
Irreplaceable Sangiovese. © Col d’Orcia.
This is the political position I take on Rosso. It’s better to reach a reasonable compromise than to keep warring. And now my emotional position. This 2005 Rosso from Col d’Orcia is delicious. It’s not a great wine, but it just does the trick on a Sunday evening. It’s real Sangiovese. (Although Col d’Orcia are a large commercial estate, with one of the best Tuscan Cabs in their portfolio – the Olmaia, owner Francesco Marone Cinzano made it clear he will be voting for a 100% Sangiovese Rosso). The colour is a transparent ruby, the nose is all cherries and currants, and the palate is full of vivid colours and characterful zest – like Italy itself. The wine is pretty young, with firm tannins, but it’s also quite elegant thanks to the obvious acidic streak. Authentic and bone-dry, this would perhaps excel with food, but it’s also a fine intellectual glass of wine for a Sunday evening. It’s all Sangiovese should be. I wouldn’t like this wine to be any other way.
Disclosure
Source of wine: own purchase.