Cimarelli Verdicchio 2010

Posted on 28 March 2012

Can Verdicchio be the new Veltliner? It certainly deserves so. I’ve had this sudden association because both work very well with Asian food. I was cooking something Malaysian the other day, and Austrian Veltliner with its good body, crisp acidity, and peppery overtones is one of the few wines that work well with that combination of spicy, sweet and sour. This time, a bottle of Verdicchio worked wonders.

I’m really fond of this Adriatic Italian white wine, ever since I spent a month in the region of Marche in 2001 hitchhiking between wineries and discovering the wines from scratch. I think Verdicchio is seriously underrated. It is as good as Vernaccia di San Gimignano that I recently praised here, but perhaps more consistent and versatile and also slightly fruitier and more approachable in style. There are many good producers, including the likes of Bucci, Sartarelli, Bonci, Brunori, Coroncino and today’s wine, Luca Cimarelli.

The 2010 Fra’ Moriale is a serious wine with depth and flesh. It is so typical with the slightly flinty-mineral edge of Verdicchio to a core of very nice rich, appley fruitiness. There is good length, and I think this will age reasonably well over 4–5 years. Acidity is not very high – the ripeness is, though we’re far from the 15+% alc. power of e.g. Coroncino – but the wine has a natural freshness and just tastes balanced. At 13€, it certainly delivers.

Disclosure

Source of wine: own purchase.