In Chianti (2)
Posted on 14 January 2009
Today’s visit was to Fontodi, another standard-bearing estate of the Chianti region.
Actually Fontodi shares several characteristics with Fèlsina (see yesterday’s post). Both estates were revitalised in the late 1970s in what is now viewed as the first wave of quality revolution for this Tuscan appellation. At that time, 100% Sangiovese wines were introduced (bottled as vini da tavola – table wines – because white grapes were a compulsory ingredient in the blend under DOC requirements), and new French barrique barrels of 225 liters were used for ageing (instead of the traditional Tuscan barrels of 1000 liters and more). Since those early days, the consultant winemaker for both Fontodi and Fèlsina has been Franco Bernabei. The style of the wines is also somewhat similar: structured, deep, serious, ageworthy.
Panzano in Chianti in the January grey.
One major difference is the terroir. While Fèlsina is located on the southern outskirts of Chianti, and its soils are predominantly limestone, gradually receding into sand, Fontodi lies at the very center of the Chianti Classico zone, 2 minutes’ drive from the town of Panzano. Here the soil is predominantly galestro, a mixture of brown volcanic slate and compressed clay, giving concentrated and deep-coloured wines with a lot of backbone.
Apologies to Giovanni Manetti for not coming up with a better picture…
Owner Giovanni Manetti showed us around the estate, whose impressive 70 ha are now farmed fully organic. Fontodi is moving towards self-efficiency: apart from 7,000 olive trees there are now also 22 cows. For manure, but also for meat, so that the estate can supply their own bistecca to provide a classic match with Sangiovese. While I enjoy a good T-bone, visiting these Chianina cows made me feel a bit guilty. This is a fantastically noble breed of cows going back to Roman times.
Fontodi cows.
We tasted a dozen wines. The highlight, apart from a lovely bottle of 1992 Pinot Nero, was the mini-vertical of Flaccianello della Pieve, Fontodi’s flagship wine (100% Sangiovese). Giovanni Manetti says the 2006 is the biggest wine ever produced here, and it is surely a heavyweight with a beetroot-like inky intensity. 2005 is lighter (as befits this challenging, rainy vintage) but needs another 2–3 years to open up. I was disappointed with the 2004 on release and also now: it is oddly vegetal and a little aggressive; perhaps time will help. For a slowly maturing Flaccianello, try the 1999, which is acquiring that tell-tale oily, almondy touch of aged Sangiovese, but still has plenty of power to improve. We also got an interesting comparison with Fontodi’s other top Sangiovese wine, Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo. Coming from oldish vines (35 years) with less new oak but 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, it is a slightly less dense, more flowery interpretation of the grape that I often prefer to Flaccianello. Surely the 2004 is superlative: concentrated but very elegant. The 1999 is also very good.
Tasting several vintages here confirmed my recent impressions that since 2003, Fontodi is really at the top of the game. The wines are now denser, more textured and expressive. In the late 1990s, I found some wines a little overtannic and drying; today, they overwhelm with a sense of balance and harmony. Asked why, Giovanni Manetti answered that it is a matter of slow gradual improvement. He quoted the increasing age of the vines as a factor. I think the exclusive use of indigenous yeast since 2000 really makes a difference. I came away impressed.