Wojciech Bońkowski
Master of Wine

The Talking Cricket

Forget flabby, low-acid, jammy, oxidative wine from Sicily. Here’s something really fresh and elegant. Plus a nice 19th-century drawing.

Fondo Antico Grillo Parlante 2007

Long underdeveloped, Sicilian wines are gathering momentum. But few of the whites are exciting. Here’s the best of them all, made from the local Grillo grape.