Picpoul de Pinet is an oddity, in that is has a long tradition. Unlike the above mentioned grapes that have been imported from other parts of France in the 19th and 20th century, Picpoul (or Piquepoul, as it is often spelled) goes back many centuries and is considered one of the oldest varieties to be still cultivated in the Languedoc. It has a red-skinned version, Piquepoul Noir, that is theoretically permitted in the AOC Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and can be found in a few vineyards in Languedoc’s Minervois (see Clos Centeilles, for example). More common is the white Piquepoul Blanc, of which there is around 1,400 hectares, chiefly in the specialist AOC Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet. Located west of the ancient port of Sète on the gentle hills leading to the Étang de Thau, it yields an interesting white wine that is a perfect partner for the local seafood.

Fougeray de Beauclair’s Picpoul de Pinet Val Grieux 2007 is a good example of this rewarding appellation. Not a very aromatic white but there is a good amount of iodine-laden terroir scents. On palate this shows good balance and Picpoul typicity, with medium-highish acidity, some mid-palate textural density (almost hinting at honey), and medium body. Distinctly maritime but not overtly crisp, this is an unfruity but interestingly textured wine that is made for food. On the picture below, my choice of pairing for today’s lunch: saffron moules à la crème. The delightfully affordable Spanish saffron from La Mancha allows to generously flavour this sauce without too much of a financial headache.