Wojciech Bońkowski
Master of Wine

Sky is the limit

Olio Secondo Veronelli: pushing the boundaries of olive oil quality.

Vintage beer

Yes, beer can age too. Vertical tasting of Chimay Blue Label 2007–2010.

Tea and food: the umami issue

Third installment of my tea and food matching sessions. Italian red mullet fish roe (bottarga) provides a challenge with its huge intensity of umami taste. Will any tea survive this?

Extra virgin upper crust

Fantastic tasting of extra virgin olive oils from the DOP Chianti Classico area. Controlled appellation oils are really classy – unlike for wine, DOP for oil is a seriously reliable endorsement.

Chocolate beer

Did you know there’s a chocolate beer?

Happy holidays!

Some nice festive drinking.

In the middle of nowhere

Bosco Eliceo – a confidential wine-making zone on Italy’s Po Delta – is underperforming. But there’s no better wine than its fizzy dry red to match with the famous Comacchio eel.

Balsamic joy

 
Not a wine today, though a wine-derived product. We all know Italian balsamic vinegar and appreciate the real thing, aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena, surely one of this planet’s most glorious man-made things. Although the principle of producing balsamic vinegar is simple – just boil grape must over fire, and then wait thirty years – it’s proven notoriously difficult to successfully emulate elsewhere. I’ve tasted balsamicos made by very good vintners in France, Spain, Germany and Australia and although really good, they were a far cry from the original Modena stuff.

Well, today’s balsamic vinegar comes quite close. It’s made in Tokaj, Hungary, by one of the leading producers of the region’s sweet wines: Dobogó (mentioned twice in my blog already: here and here). It’s vintage-dated (I’m tasting the 2005 here), and it’s made with must from aszú wine – yes, the incredibly sweet noble-rot affected ‘wine of kings, king of wines’. Even the bacteria that slowly ferment the wine into vinegar are selected from the skins of the estate’s Furmint grapes. Aged a year in Hungarian and Italian oak – and so very much shorter than a good Emilian balsamico – it’s one of the most concentrated vinegars I’ve tasted. While it doesn’t quite match the ageless viscosity of Modenian vinegar, it is very thick, with a wonderfully complex flavour ranging from fresh grapes through molasses to tertiary notes of caramel, dried figs and Marmite. Just a bit less sweet than Modena, the tang of this Tokaj vinegar is a bit more obvious (6%), making this a very good accompaniment with savoury foods. And it’s really inexpensive – 10 € for the 250 ml you see on the photos – though I don’t think it’s exported. 

 

In Apulia (3): A good… beer

The only bottle I brought from Italy this time: it’s actually beer!

Black diamonds

Black turnip – a great ancient vegetable. And the wines that go with it.