Wojciech Bońkowski
Master of Wine

Beautiful memories

Saying goodbye to good old Rosso di Montalcino? Awaiting the verdict of appellation authorities next Wednesday, I’m having a delicious 100% Sangiovese Rosso tonight.

Montalcino still at war

Montalcino is still at war. The idea of allowing grapes other than Sangiovese into Rosso di Montalcino has boomeranged. But is it really Montalcino’s biggest problem? I don’t think so.

Sky is the limit

Olio Secondo Veronelli: pushing the boundaries of olive oil quality.

Frappato: unique

Sicily’s Cerasuolo di Vittoria is an unexpected wine: light, airy, perfumed and Burgundian though it comes from Europe’s southernmost corner.

Romagna: what’s the future?

After 100 wines tasted this spring in the Italian region of Romagna, I look at the challenges facing this large producer. How to make the local Sangiovese a global brand?

My life with Pio Cesare

I never really liked the wines of Pio Cesare upon release, in their youth. Recent tastings have instilled a doubt in my mind. So I put Pio Cesare to the 10-year test.

A window wide shut

Vino Nobile is one of Tuscany’s great historical wines. But where is it going today? Tasting through 110 examples, I find them undrinkable until they are really aged. But who is going to have the patience?

The Talking Cricket

Forget flabby, low-acid, jammy, oxidative wine from Sicily. Here’s something really fresh and elegant. Plus a nice 19th-century drawing.

Extra virgin upper crust

Fantastic tasting of extra virgin olive oils from the DOP Chianti Classico area. Controlled appellation oils are really classy – unlike for wine, DOP for oil is a seriously reliable endorsement.

Out of the pink

I’ve got a great idea for Brunello di Montalcino producers to ease themselves out of the sales crunch. Make rosé. Not only because it’s fashionable, but because Montalcino pinks can be seriously good.